- Wool, satinette, kersey, cassimere or jean cloth, of a non-charcoal grey/dark grey color, which should be purchased from a vendor listed on the 4th Virginia approved vendor list.
- Lined in osnaburg, waverly, cotton drill, or correct color/pattern;
- Belt loops are left to the discretion of the member units or individual;
- The buttons for the jacket are to be either VA state (correct period brass), brass block "I", Script "I", Federal Eagle, coin, or plain brass. Pewter buttons are not acceptable.
- There is to be no colored trim or piping on the jacket unless a member voluntarily chooses to temporarily add black trim to his jacket for purposes of complying with event-specific uniform standards.
The Richmond Depot "Type II" shell jacket is characterized by a six piece body and two piece sleeves, with shoulder straps and belt loops, and a nine button front.
In terms of construction, the only real difference between a Type II and Type III jacket is that Type III jackets did not have shoulder straps or belt loops.
In terms of fabric - all surviving Type III jackets are made out of Blue/Grey Kersey imported from England (this material is also referred to as "cadet grey wool kersey" - however, the modern cadet grey bears no resemblance to period English Blue/Grey Kersey).
There is a general opinion held by some historians today that Type III jackets produced by the Richmond Depot were exclusively made with English Blue/Grey Kersey. (See Echos of Glory pp. 136-137, 139). At a minimum, 100% grey wool Tpe III jackets were extremely rare and usually only worn by officers.
Richmond Depot Clothing Bureau records found at the National Archives in Washington D.C. indicate that, after late 1862, 100% grey woolen material was not produced in any significant quantity by the mills providing the Clothing Bureau with materials for uniforms. Records indicate that in 1863, for example, approximately 90% of all uniform material produced for the Richmond depot was jean cloth and cassimere.
These materials were usually dyed grey or brownish-grey with natural dyes such as sweet gum bark, logwood, and sumac. The natural dyes would fade with exposure to the sun into a variety of brownish/earth-toned hues. Jean cloth is characterized by a 2/1 twill with a cotton warp and a wool filling, while cassimere cloth has a 2/2 twill. Although no known documentation exists, it is probable that satinette was only utilized for uniform construction by the depot early in the war possibly through mid-1862 - satinette is not as durable as jean cloth and also requires a bit more wool. Technically, satinette also has a woolen weft or fill and a cotton warp like jean cloth - but satinette was loomed in such a manner so that it looks more like an all wool broadcloth - sometimes described as a 4/1 or 5/1 twill.
Based upon the information currently available - for a mid-war impression: a Type II jacket made of jean cloth or cassimere would be most appropriate. For a late war impression - a Type III jacket (or a Peter Tait jacket describe below) made of blue/grey kersey is most appropriate.
The "Peter Tait" jacket was manufactured in Limerick, Ireland. This blue/grey kersey wool jacket is characterized by a five-piece body, two-piece sleeve, and an eight-button front. The dominant number of surviving examples have linen, rather than cotton, linings. The linings were stamped with a British Army sizing system. Some Tait jackets had shoulder straps and some did not. The front edges of the jacket were machine stitched. Some surviving jackets are trimmed with royal blue on the edges of the collar and shoulder straps.
Records indicate that the Richmond Depot Clothing Bureau received large quantities of blue/grey English kersey in mid-1863. There are surviving Type II shell jackets made with this material. Peter Tait jackets were probably imported from mid-1863 until the end of the war.
We know of the issuance of these English blue gray kersey uniforms to the Stonewall Brigade in late May of 1863. In a letter written by Alexander Tedford Barclay, a member of Company I, 4th Virginia, dated May 26, 1863, Barclay wrote to his sister that: "as I was getting tolerably ragged, the brigade secured a supply of English clothes. So as I was one of the needy ones, I am rigged in a splendid suit of blue."
Eric Mink found another letter in the Manuscript Collection of the Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park. This letter was written by George L. Slifer of Company G, 2nd Virginia on January 7, 1865. In this letter, Slifer - probably writing from the trenches of the Richmond/Petersburg line - reassures his uncle that: "since we have bin down here we have bin supplied with clothing" and that he "drew a new inglish suit, so you can see I want nothing but piece and our independence."
Over a decade ago, the "Stonewall" Brigade chose to set down uniform standards for its members. It was decided that the Brigade would adopt a mid to late war appearance and that standards for uniforms would reflect that choice. With regards to the jacket, the Richmond Depot style in either the "Type II" or "Type III" was chosen as the uniform coat that all members were to wear. In 1996, this was amended to allow the Peter Tait style of jacket to be worn, only for events that represented the period from May 1863 through the end of the war. This amendment continued to adhere to our chosen impression of mid to late war infantry in the Army of Northern Virginia.
Recently, the reenacting community has witnessed a growing shift toward events that either suggest or require participants to hone their impression in an effort to more accurately portray the time period of that particular event. This has had little impact upon our impression when the event is portraying the years 1863 to 1864. However, more and more events are being scheduled that are either battles or living histories that represent the first two years of the war. This year, 2001, we have scheduled a battle reenactment and living history that depict events that occurred in 1861, and two battles reenactments that are asking for 1862 impressions. For this reason, I am proposing a change to the Brigade's standards that would allow for a more refined impression to include 1861 and 1862.
The central government supply system did not get into full swing until mid to late 1862. Therefore, the Richmond Depot "Type I" would be unacceptable for an 1861, and most of 1862, impression. For this reason, I suggest, and propose, that the standards be amended to include the wearing of a frock coat for events that choose to portray troops in 1861 and 1862. The frock coat was never issued, by the central government, to the armies. It was an item of clothing that was either received from the state, or more frequently from home. While clothing from home varied considerably, I believe that we should still hold true to our initial desire to have some uniformity within the ranks.
When the original uniform standards were compiled and written, the color of cloth that was chosen was a dark gray. This decision was based on photographic investigations at the time, which of course gave little evidence as to the color of the original soldiers' uniforms. As the jackets in period images appeared to be dark in shade, that was what the Brigade decided upon. Since then, much research has been conducted and there appears to be little to suggest that Confederate uniforms were ever made from dark gray cloth. No originals survive that are of this shade and it would have been rather expensive, at the time, to have dyed cloth to a dark hue. Therefore, my suggestion is that in choosing cloth for a frock coat, it would be encouraged to go with a light to mid shade of gray, either wool or jean being acceptable. Many surviving frock coats also trim, around the collar and/or the cuffs, and the vast majority of the trim is black. The choice of whether to "decorate" the coat with trim or not would be left up to the individual.
I believe that a change to allow the wearing of frock coats at events representing the first two years of the war will give us a wider range of impressions and allow us to participate at events that have more stringent uniform requirements or guidelines. With all of this said, my proposal to amend the "Stonewall" Brigade Uniform Standards reads as such: