Understanding ladies of the 1860's as individuals is the first step in creating a realistic persona. Ladies during the 19th century were all unique as ladies in 21st century. Age, location, marital status, and economic influence all made an impact on how they dressed.

One misconception among living historians today is to many people is influenced by their own opinions and preferences rather than historical accuracy.

The majority of women during the 1860's wore one-piece dresses with bodice and skirts of the same material - not separates. Only a few fashionable young women between the ages of 15-25 wore white shirt and skirt combinations, so commonly seen among reenactors today.

The topic of dresses is a very lengthy subject, so I have broken it down into 4 topics. Bodices, sleeves, waist treatments, and skirt lengths with a brief description of each.

Fitted Bodice

The fitted bodice or most commonly referred to as "V" bodice is the most commonly seen style bodice found in period Cartes-de-Visite (CdV's). These bodices were closely fitted with 1-2 darts on each side, with a front opening, dropped shoulder, and almost horizontal armscyes with piping placed at the waist and armscyes.

Materials commonly used for fitted bodices were wool or silk. The fitted bodice was the most popular bodice among all age groups.

Gathered Bodice:

Also called "O" bodice the gathered bodice was much like the fitted bodice with the exception that they were fitted with 1-2 small controlled gathers instead of darts. Fitted bodices also had a front opening, dripped shoulder, almost horizontal armscyes with piping placed at the armscye and waist.

There are a number of different ways of constructing a gathered bodice- the most common way was to cut the lining and dress fabric from the same pattern and gather them together. The most common for nicer cotton dresses was to have the lining made fitted and the outer dress fabric gathered to the same dimensions. Sheer cottons are usually made like this but with the lining being cut lower and wider on the neck, to help keep you cool. The bodice is fitted onto a waistband approximately 1.5 to 2 inches wide, which was piped at the lower edge. These bodices were commonly seen with decorative belts made from velvet, ribbon, or contrasting fabrics.

Materials commonly used for gathered bodices were woven checks, stripes, and plaid, solid or print cotton. Some bodices were made from wool for winter. This type was most common for southern women over 12 years of age during the Civil War.

Fan Bodice

This type of bodice was most popular before the Civil War, and remained popular with older ladies through the war. Most CdV's of older ladies shows this type of bodice. The Fan bodice differed from the gathered bodice mainly in that the fabric was gathered or finely pleated at the center front of the waist. The extra fullness in the front was then pleated in at the shoulders. The top and bottom gathering formed a "Y" shape to the bodice.

There was also a "Modified fan bodice". A cross between a Fan bodice and a Gathered bodice, where the waistline shortened and the fullness was lessened. The pleats and the shoulders were eliminated, making the modified fan front closer to a gathered bodice. These were common on middle aged women throughout the war, but were also seen on younger women just before the war and in the early war years.

Coat Sleeve

The coat sleeve is the most commonly style of sleeve found on original period garments and in period photos. This sleeve is fitted at the armseye and at the wrist without being cuffed. The coat sleeve "bellows" out at the elbow and can be cut in one or two pieces, with or without a seam running down the outside edge.

The coat sleeve is appropriate for all ages and used on cotton, wool, or silk dresses.

Bishop Sleeve

Another commonly seen sleeve during 1861-65. The bishop sleeve is fitted at the armscye and flares to the wrist to be gathered into a cuff. Cuffs on original garments are at least 2 inches wide rather than the narrow cuffs so commonly seen.

Bishop sleeves are appropriate on cotton, wool, or silk dresses.

Pagodas are fitted at the armscye and are generally ¾ lengths and have an open flare at the bottom edge. Almost all original dresses with pagoda sleeves are lined with white silk with trim applied along the interior bottom edge.

Pagoda sleeves were a high fashion statement and reserved for nice or best dresses. All pagoda sleeves were worn with white cotton under sleeves. This style sleeves were an 1850's fashion. They are inappropriate for anyone under 30 years of age. If worn by ladies over 30, the dress must also reflect 1850's style.

It was very fashionable during the Civil War to have full healthy hips. Waist treatments help to achieve this.

Directional Pleating

Also known as Knife pleats, was the most common pleat used in construction of skirts during the 1860's. A study of original garments confirms that the directional pleats changed direction at the sides and at the center back forming an inverted box pleat. Typical for "better" dresses, especially silk.

Box Pleating

Was a pleat not so commonly seen, until late war when narrower hips became fashionable. By late war elliptical hoops were becoming fashionable and more emphasis on the skirts was moving toward the back.

Gauging or Cartridge Pleating

Another pleat used in the construction of ladies garments. This is made by several lines of gathering threads running in parallel formation through the fabric, and as the fabric is drawn up into a series of tiny, tight pleats which sit perpendicular to the outside of the garment. This waist treatment very likely fell out of popularity because it is not as effective as knife pleats in confining and controlling large amounts of fabric. This pleat would be appropriate with work or wash dresses that would be worn without the hoop.

Skirt lengths during the Civil War were a function of fashion not to mention the standard of modesty of the day. The lengths ranged from just touching the floor to as short as 4 inches off the ground. The most common length was somewhere in between. Hooped dresses 3-4 inches from the ground. Work or wash dresses just brushing the top of the shoe to the ankles. This practical length prevented the skirts from dragging the ground and causing more wear.