* All underpinnings should be made of 100% cotton. This allows the fabric to breath, and allows the wearer to be cooler.

Drawers

19th Century drawers were full-cut tubes independently attached to a waistband. Hems extended to just below the knees. The crotch was left open for connivance in using the restroom. Crotchless is optional to the wearer.

Chemise

Chemises are short-sleeved, loose, shift-like garments reaching just below the knees. It provided a modesty barrier for open crotch drawers. Period chemises often had gussets at the armhole to help absorb perspiration. Period laundry lists indicate that ladies had more chemises than dresses. They can also be used as a nightgown.

Stockings

19th Century stockings were usually thigh-high and knitted out of wool or cotton. Colors were usually white, natural, and sometimes with horizontal stripes ( but were very rare). Fashionable ladies wore silk stockings. Stockings were worn over the knees using garters.

Garters

Usually made of silk or cotton, with buckles. These were worn over the knee. Although they did have elastic garters, the white band elastic garters that most event sutlers sell are NOT period correct. There are a lot of references of red silk garters, and garters with embroidered poems.

Corset

Necessary for an accurate period look!

Corsets were mostly made from 100% cotton ‘Jean’, what we now call twill. Corsets are worn over the chemise with helps protect the corset from perspiration and dirt.

The corset contains metal stays, cups, and closes with a busk in front and laces in the back. The back laces has a space of 3-4 inches with allows for adjustment of weight gain or loss.

Corsets MUST be custom fitted to the person, not bought off the rack. When properly fitted they are comfortable, supports the bust and carries the weight of the cage and skirts.

Under Petticoat

Can be made from 100% cotton (recommended for summer) or quilted or wool flannel (to provide warmth when needed). The under petticoat is worn under the cage to protect legs from the cage. These come below mid calf. If no cage is worn, then a corded petticoat is recommended.

Corded Petticoat

These are worn instead of a cage to make the skirts full. They are constructed using medium weight cotton or linen fabric in which manila hemp rope is inserted to give a stiff appearance. These are great for a working impression.

Cage Crinoline (AKA- Hoop)

A cage consists of hoops suspended from vertical tapes. It helps support the skirt and gibes a dressier look. They should not be worn or a work impression, or be worn around a campfire.

Original photographs from the early war years show skirt widths about 50% as wide as the wearer’s height. Late war photo’s show 70% as wide as the height. Appropriate size for average women during day wear should be between 90”-100” inches in circumference. Taller ladies would wear a slightly larger size. Especially during evening wear. All lengths should bend 6-8 inches above the ground.

Cage Crinoline must be fitted to your corset.

The bridal hoops sold by sutlers are oversized and incorrect.

Footwear

Women wore boots or shoes with square toes. Laces could be in front or the side and might have elastic bands in the sides. (There are only a few documented cases where elastic was used in shoes and garters of the period)

Heels were 1 inch or less. No heal or extremely low heal slip on shoes for indoor wear and balls. Ankle high boots of silk were also used for dancing.

Dresses

There were a great variety in dress styles, fabrics, colors, patterns, and construction methods used in the 19th Century.

A majority of women during 61-65 wore dresses composed of matching bodices and skirts that were attached at the waistbands. Another common construction was matching skirt and bodice and the bodice was worn outside concealing the skirt waistband.

One misconception among reenactors today is the usage of the white blouse and print skirt combinations. There are only a few documented cases where this was worn, and they were in the 15-25 year old age group. In those few cases the bodice was some other color than white, and the construction was a fitted bodice, not the baggy white blouse sold by a few sutlers today.

For work impressions or refugee impressions a basic workdress or washdress would be sufficient. This will be accepted at most events. A work dress can be made from lightweight wool, cotton calico, or homespun fabric. For a work impression (lower class) you would not wear a cage, but a corded petticoat.

Day or better dresses would be made from medium weight cotton calico, silk, or lightweight wool. These dresses would be moderately trimmed. A day dress would generally be worn with a cage. Day dresses would be good for an everyday dress for middle to upper-middle class or for a market or church dress for a lower-class lady.

Ball gowns or evening dresses would be made from finer materials such as silk, velvet, lightweight cotton, and the ever popular silk taffeta. These dresses would be lower cut than day dresses (to just below the shoulders) short sleeves, and elaborately trimmed. Evening dresses would not have such loc cut bodices as the ball gowns. The ball gowns and evening dresses worn in the 1860’s would only be worn inside.

-- As always, I recommend you also do your own research to learn more about the various styles, fabrics, prints, and construction of 19th Century clothing.